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EL DORADO The metropolis attacks. Guerra de los Mil Días. Money and passports are next to skin. Narco-terrorismo. We move from bank to bank through prospero and poverty. Gamines y Cachacos. The museum of gold tucks us inside a volatile security of guards. El Dorado. Street graffiti doesn't want us here. La Violencia. Walls are topped with broken glass. Burrudanga. Mitología. Realidad. Loco-mbia, un despelote, se dice. Melissa and I sit to coffee in the city centre. A man approaches us with compliments and a huge open wound. Shirtless, his stained coat uncovers pus and giant crusts of blood over the appendix. He mumbles about the wonder of our hair, the pleasure of our black beauty. We are calm, we do not help. We sit, drinking our real, handpicked Colombian coffee looking past the future itself. Subject to Guilt by association. Subject to People kickin' in doors and billboards for fun. Subject to Caffeine at the core of a dangerous capitol. Santa Fe de Bogotá, Colombia 9/97 |
 Outside San Augustin, Colombia |
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~ ~ ~  Friends and Food in Copacabana, Bolivia FOOD shrimp marinated in lemon juice, onions, tomatoes, a tongue-feast ceviche de camarones a hot, thick cranberry-red drink made from red corn, lemon, cinnamon and sugar api roasted guinea pig by the side of the road where most things happen cuy fresh raw sugar cane to chew and drain through endless bus rides caña whole potato with vegetables and peanut sauce papas a la rellena drink, alcoholic and not, made from black corn chicha morada Pisco, egg white, lemon, sugar and crushed ice pisco sour anise-flavoured sugar cane alcohol aguardiente corn so huge… one kernel at a time choclo slab of fried cheese for breakfast queso vegetable stir-fry tallarin con verduras unidentifiable meat kebobs pacumutu passionfruit juice jugo de maracuyá Lake Titicaca trout trucha del lago whole-roasted suckling pig lechón meat soup ¡caldo, caldo degallina! chicken stew ¡seco, seco degallina! blackberry juice jugo de mora all Chinese restaurants Chifa a different doughnut muñelo soft drinks ¡colacolacolita! breadfruit tomate de árbol coca-leaf tea mate de coca fresh-flowered figs higo 1.1-litre beers cervecita soft drinks gaseosas plantains plátanos black coffee tinto tofu carne de soya jugo de parchita sesame chips grenadilla Inca Kola la fritada quinoa arepas yuca keke kike coca |
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